L ast year’s Fashion Week presented more or less the same bunch of tall, skinny models with conventionally perfect hair and body. This year however, the runway looked a bit different, more ‘inclusive’ with a total of five curvy models and one transgender model in a swarm of conventional bodies. So, was that enough representation? I hardly think so, and here’s why. Sitting on the front row on Day 1 of Lakmé Fashion Week, I watched patiently hoping to catch a glimpse of at least one unconventional looking model. I smiled almost immediately when I saw a mid-sized model tread the runway, but not before noticing the way she had been sidelined. Although beautifully styled and confident in her walk, this model appeared to be dressed in what could only be described as a safe outfit meant to conceal her curves. She was then followed by a tall, thin model dressed in a daring fashionable outfit flaunting her body, in stark contrast to the previous girl. The ploy of playing it safe with a curvy body sends across the message that a body that doesn’t fall into the ‘conventional model’ bracket is to be hidden away with layers. While most of the showcases at fashion week disappointed when it came to being an inclusive space, Anuu’s Creation, helmed by designer Annu Patel featured real women, with curvy models no taller than 5’6”. This left us impressed because although other designers attempted to include curvy models in their show, not one of them stood shorter than 5’10”. Speaking about her decision to include shorter models, designer Annu Patel shared, “We had a talented bunch of models and influencers walking for us and we strongly intended to include varied body types. We believe that every body is positive and every shape and shade is beautiful. Fashion is for everyone irrespective of body type, shape and height and we tried to convey the same through our line-up.” During the rest of fashion week, while others cheered on at the so-called acceptance of the different body sizes, if you scrutinised closely, not one of them was allowed to show off their curves with confidence. Loose, oversized silhouettes, long sleeves, safe and comfortable was the theme for the said curvy models, while the not so curvy ones walked baring it all. So where does inclusivity really fit in here? Diversity and inclusion are a growing trend across the globe and especially in the fashion industry, which has drawn flak previously for promoting a certain body image and type, which is more often than not Euro-centric, heteronormative, fatphobic and discriminatory in other ways. While diversity is about representation of different parts of society, inclusion is about how well the contributions, presence and perspectives of different groups of people are valued and integrated into an environment. Brands talk inclusive fashion How far have we come in representing real people at the fashion centrestage? BY ARUSHI SAKHUJA & SCHENELLE DSOUZA Colour Inclusivity, LoveChild By Masaba FITTING IN 14|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023 MARCH 2023 |LUXEBOOK|15
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