When it comes to platforms like fashion runways,these have managed to present nothing more than concealed efforts of tokenism. Take for example the FDCI X Lakmé Fashion Week. Touted as one of the most prestigious and influential platforms in the country, Lakmé Fashion Week manages to grab the attention of pretty much everyone in the country, and yet its efforts to accurately represent real people seems to be almost non-existent. Designing for real bodies Designer Saisha who showcased her collection at Lakmé Fashion Week this year, spoke openly about the role of inclusivity on the runway as merely an act to be woke and cool. “Inclusivity means having a balanced pool of models, not just plus sized models but real women with real bodies – different shapes, sizes and even heights. I believe that the day we give importance to modelling as a profession for women and girls of all heights, shapes and sizes, and have them trained without any prejudice, is the day we’ll see any real change. Until then, any attempts at trying to incorporate inclusivity will always be about being woke.” Suruj aka Glorious Luna spoke to LuxeBook about their journey in the industry, and their honest opinions of the conversation of inclusivity. “In a conservative country like India, accepting yourself and be able to sustain yourself with a job and any other opportunity is difficult. I believe our country needs some queer icons because growing up I never could relate to anybody I saw on television; there weren’t very many queer icons, and the ones that were there, were meant solely for mockery. And so, fashion and beauty were the only language I knew and understood, one that I could experiment with to express how I feel. Today, a majority of the people working in looking fierce and fearless. In 2020, Gaurav Gupta’s digital fashion week had a diverse casting from the LGBT community. Today, androgynous clothing that has been a staple in the West has also seen a rise in the Indian fashion sphere.The Indian fashion industry is attempting to create diverse visual imagery and moving away from standard European notions of beauty. Inclusivity champions In the beauty industry, designer Masaba Gupta’s new beauty line LoveChild has a distinct political message. With a varied product line of high-performance colour cosmetics, skincare and wellness solutions, the brand campaigns are designed for every age group, with colours developed to suit especially Indian skin tones. Speaking on building an inclusive brand she said, “I wanted to build something that did not bind women with preconceived notions of beauty and skincare. Honesty, inclusivity and efficacy have always been a top priority while creating LoveChild. LoveChild is so much more than just makeup; it is love for your skin. It is a journey of nutrition, fitness, and wellness alongside beauty. With LoveChild, we have focused not only on colour but also on a holistic cosmowellness range. My aim with LoveChild was to keep it simple and accessible to everyone.” Fashion giant Zara launched a new beauty line that is impressively inclusive with over 50 foundation shades to suit every skin type as opposed to the usual four or five shades with the darkest just a few shades deeper than beige. However, there is still a long way to go to ensure that inclusivity permeates the industry at every level, rather than just at a few catwalks and advertisements. Sanjana Rishi gave us a valid point to ponder over, she believes....”India has come far in the inclusivity battle, but not far enough. We need to do a lot more to make women who aren’t stick thin to feel included as customers. We need to celebrate the icons that Indian women, of all shapes are, regardless of their physical appearance.” Tokenism or real change With the conversation surrounding inclusivity doing its rounds, the term has come to be more of a buzzword in the industry, much like the term “sustainability”. the fashion and beauty industry are queer. They might’ve had to conceal their identity initially, but things are slowly changing. I feel seen and heard as a queer person.” More queer representation Speaking about India’s role with representation, Luna believes the country is trying and has even come a long way. “India might not be as accepting as the West, but I do believe we’re getting there, although it is a long journey ahead. When it comes to creative fields like fashion and beauty, the industry is quite accepting. But there needs to be more queer representation in corporate spaces where queer people are strongly discriminated against and hardly ever taken seriously.” marking a watershed for the global fashion scene. However, one fears a backlash, with the New York Fashion Week this year being called out recently for the noted presence of only fair, skinny models. “The international fashion weeks, for example, were markedly missing the same inclusivity they were being lauded for last season. I hope it’s not like that for us,” said Rishi. Fashion and queerness After the Supreme Court of India decriminalized section 377 (Indian Penal Code), The Spring Summer 2019 edition of Lotus Make-Up India Fashion Week (LMIFW) organised by FDCI closed with a spectacular ‘Rainbow’ fashion show! 40 designers from across the country paid tribute. Models walked the LMIFW runway in bold designs, LMIFW Rainbow show Anjali Lama, First Transgender Model LoveChild By Masaba 18|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023 MARCH 2023 |LUXEBOOK|19
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