standards and techniques. People have started looking for inspiration outside the realm of Indian cuisine.” For instance, Shahzad says, techniques like fermentation are applied to Indian cuisine in a very different way to give it a new flavour dimension. For instance, the use of rose petals at The Bombay Canteen, to make vinegar gives the dish and ingredients a new flavour dimension. The Bombay Canteen also uses left over pao to make pao-miso which is used to impart more flavour to a dish. “The dish that is created using these ingredients is very Indian, but what we are doing is just applying a Japanese technique to an Indian ingredient. Holistically, it still remains very Indian,” he concludes. Saran also points out that innovation is at its peak when looking at modern Indian food, “ Innovations are aplenty but few work magically. Young chefs are successfully using modern equipment to create authentic dishes that bring comforting satiety and deep pride. Gastronomy when created with heart and soul, and packed with flavour- can be that much-needed bridge that shall turn Indian cuisine into a world class one.” The overseas boom “The Indian diaspora is well entrenched in every city and nation of the world with an exciting food scene,” feels Saran. The western world has become well-versed in Indian cuisine, and it is now commonplace to find Indian food represented in restaurants around the world. To a difference between the second and third wave with suitable examples. “Initially, what chefs were trying to do was to present Indian food in a French format to pander to the audience of the western world. Nothing wrong with it actually, what we tried and did was – we cooked Indian food in their way, using their cooking methods and philosophies. Versus what we are trying to do today is take Indian flavours and apply them interestingly in different formats and textures. For example: Ceviches and Tartares made with locally sourced produce and seafood are now a part of Indian cuisine because there is an audience in India and abroad for it – this wasn’t the case a few years ago.” Hence, we can say modern Indian food is about technique, and it plays a big part in shaping a cuisine. New innovations in Modern Indian Food India is at the cusp of innovation and modernization when it comes to culinary experiences. Chef Himanshu Saini, Corporate Chef, Trèsind attributes innovation in today’s time to the use of indigenous and native ingredients by adopting modern cooking techniques. The narrative of Indian food is changing significantly believes Saini. “Indian restaurants have always existed overseas but what’s changing now is their representation. Many Indian chefs around the world are breaking preconceived notions about Indian food and the way it is being presented, at par with international cuisines and flavour profiles during that time.” Over time people have realised that Indian food is beyond curries and naan and has so much more to offer. He continues to say, “Earlier, people internationally thought that ‘curries and naan’ was the only type of Indian food that was available. Off lately, there has been a lot of attention that is given to the types of Indian cuisine and what it has to offer at global platforms which is why it is having its moment, and it is a great thing!” With the recent rise of the pop-up culture, Indian chains are treading into international waters more seamlessly. “We have done a bunch of international popups with The Bombay Canteen, the recent most being at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, USA and people internationally have received it phenomenally well.” Shahzad attributes the success of these pop-ups to the way the flavours of India are paired with the produce of the native country or region. “This just creates magic on a plate because the product is something the people there are familiar with, and the flavour is something they are trying for the first time.” At the end of the day, modern Indian food today (or in fact Indian food) isn’t meant to awe you, it’s just supposed to make you happy. Today, Indian restaurants are celebrating and showcasing the diversity and range of our entire country. Indian cuisine has found its voice, shedding labels and categorisation, infused with a spirit of discovery, imagination and curiosity that is truly modern and truly limitless. cater to palates across the globe, chefs are creating dishes that are an amalgamation of Indian flavour profiles along with global flavours. Think unique pairing, reinvention of dishes and experimentation. However, it is a challenge for chefs to adapt to an audience around the world, and also ensure the dish sings on each of their palates. “I prepare Indian food abroad for an audience who are not very familiar with India’s culinary history or the diverse flavours that comes from every corner and region of India so the responsibility to showcase flavours abroad needs to be taken seriously. When I cook in India, the diners are very well educated about the food, but it is the presentation and interpretation of a dish that becomes a point of focus. To bring something familiar in an unfamiliar manner is a challenge that keeps helping me push my boundaries.” Pointing out the downside, Hussain Shahzad believes that in India, we have access to amazing locally grown produce which is not as easily available when you are cooking internationally. Another difference is that there is not so much glorification of local Indian ingredients in India as it is abroad hence making the task a tad more challenge in the country of origin. Yet another noteworthy point that led to the rise of Indian food globally is the pandemic. Indian food became one of the most ordered cuisines during the pandemic shared Shahzad. He believes this boom is due to...” reasons like – it travelled well, and also because people were open to trying and exploring lesser-known Cannoli filled with minced lamb topped with pickled onion served with mint chutney Sarson Ka Saag Kulcha, The Bombay Canteen Podi Beef, The Bombay Canteen 28|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023 MARCH 2023 |LUXEBOOK|29
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