LuxeBook October 2022

chikankari was only done on white or colourless muslin cloth. However, due to the lack of availability of muslin, chikankari was later carried out on materials like georgette, chiffon, cotton, silk, organza, etc. The colours used also changed with time, going from plain whites to pastel shades with light coloured threads. Additionally, the use of embellishments like sequins, beads and mirror work was also incorporated to enhance the appearance of the craft. While a handful of designers work with traditional craftsmen and women in Lucknow, modernization of the chikankari has brought in modern techniques like machine operated designing and stitching, which some would say has completely taken away from the authenticity of the craft. Anjul Bhandari is one of the few Indian designers maintaining the traditional practice of handto my personality and my style,” Bhandari said. “The versatility of the embroidery and the way it can look regal yet understated and contemporary is what makes it so special to me.” Bhandari had been designing couture for over 10 years before launching her eponymous label in 2010. Her label, she said was an ode to her mother-in-law’s legacy. “My label is an endeavour to continue her legacy by marrying my love for fashion, art and Chikankari with designs that stands for the spirit of our time and celebrate the labour of love.” Preservation over reinvention The art form of chikankari, Bhandari believes, is extremely unique because it isn’t practised anywhere outside Lucknow. “As is common knowledge, the government has geotagged the Awadh Chikankari. In that sense, it is original chikankari, only if it is done within the marked 200 kilometres.” In any case, chikankari by itself is such a unique craft; the beautiful thread embroidery gives it a certain versatility making it wearable for any occasion, even without embellishments. Talking about the process, Bhandari says that chikankari is a time-consuming art form. The designer shares that it often takes anywhere between 6 months to 2 years to complete one piece of clothing; that often depends on the intricacy of the embroidery and the karigar’s skills. “It is a lengthy process. The garments go through a lengthy process that begins with printing and continues through sampling, embroidery, jali, washing, stitching chikankari from the traditional karigars of Lucknow. A labour of love A self-taught artist, Anjul Bhandari’s long-standing love affair with the craft of her land was the reason behind her inclination to champion it through her designs. Bhandari spoke about her mother-in-law being the inspiration for her love for chikankari. Hailing from Lucknow, Bhandari’s mother-in-law was a social worker who worked for the upliftment of women in the rural parts of Lucknow. Working with craftsmen in the area, Bhandari was exposed to the craft of chikankari and fell in love with the aesthetic – intricate white thread embroidery and delicate stitches that brought a design to life, resonated with her. “The way in which different stitches came together to make a design come alive really resonated with me; and the classic aesthetic really spoke Ensemble Anjul Bhandari present ‘Gulah-e-Rang’ Ensemble Anjul Bhandari present ‘Gulah-e-Rang’ 24|L U X E B O O K|O C T O B E R 2 0 2 2 O C T O B E R 2 0 2 2 |L U X E B O O K| 25

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