Luxebook July 2023

Navigator of choice The timeless appeal of the Breguet Type XX The Breguet Type XX makes a comeback in 2023 with new momentum, a new generation and an all-new calibre BY ARUSHI SAKHUJA With a legacy of nearly 70 years, the Breguet Type XX has accompanied the history of aviation – whether on pilots’ wrists as a precision instrument or on those of ordinary amateur enthusiasts. Keeping this in mind, Breguet unveiled a redesigned line that is innovative, highly contemporary and brimming with history. The unique Breguet Type XX There are a lot of pilot chronographs in the market today, but the Breguet Type XX is one of the most iconic chronographs of them all. Enjoying a cult status for nearly 70 years, the Type XX has accompanied the history of aviation — whether on pilots’ wrists as a precision instrument or on those of ordinary amateur enthusiasts fascinated by its legendary qualities. In the early 1950s, Breguet was able to meet the requirements of air forces wishing to equip themselves with a robust wrist chronograph featuring certain distinctive characteristics. With orders from the French Air Force, followed by the Centre d’Essais en Vol, the Aéronautique Navale and numerous civilian pilots, the entire aviation elite took to the skies with the famous Type XX. The Type XX’s success in the 1950s made the brand draw upon its history while creating the new Type XX in two versions. Four years of preparation preceded the unveiling of the latest generation of iconic Type XX watches. The watch is now available in two styles: Type 20 Chronographe 2057 inspired by military designs and Type XX Chronographe 2067 reflecting the finest civilian models. Type 20 Chronographe 2057: The Military Heritage The Type 20 Chronographe 2057 timepiece is inspired by 1100 iconic timepieces delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959, whose name appeared as Type 20 in Arabic numerals — Type XX. The watch features a modernized black dial while carrying ahead its design ethos of the old Type 20 identity. The 42 mm steel case is fitted with a non-engraved fluted bidirectional bezel and the crown reflecting the original pear shape is adjustable in three positions: neutral, date correction, and time setting. The 30-minute totalizer located at 3 o’clock is now larger than the 60-second totalizer displayed at 9 o’clock. The 2 o’clock pusher serves to activate the chronograph, and the one at 4 o’clock for the flyback function. The former is used to start and stop the watch, while the latter serves to reset the chronograph and the minute totalizer. Breguet Type 20 Chronographe 2067: The line of civilian versions The second timepiece has an adventurous and slick look, is a direct descendant of the finest civilian Type XX from the 1950s and 1960s, notably a model made in 1957 and bearing the individual number 2988. While its dial is black as the 2057, it differs in several respects. The key difference lies in its display: the 15-minute totalizer is located at 3 o’clock, the 12-hour totalizer at 6 o’clock and running seconds at 9 o’clock. The 2 o’clock pusher starts and stops the chronograph functions, while the one at 4 o’clock resets and restarts the chronograph immediately, based on the famous “flyback” principle. Encased in a 42 mm steel case, the totalizer has a different size to make the dial both more dynamic and more legible. The Arabic numerals, the hands and the triangle on the bezel are in an ivory-coloured luminescent hue. Like the military version, the date window appears between 4 and 5 o’clock. Adding to the list of details is the fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight crown enables setting in three positions that are the same as the military version. Both models are equipped with the Flyback function, which allows the chronograph to be reset to zero and a new count to be started instantly. With a sleek and contemporary design, the timepieces are a luxe addition to your daily look. Wear it to the board room or for a casual evening and leave onlookers mesmerized. It truly is a sophisticated statement handcrafted with precision. Although the newer models have a more contemporary look, the design ethos is in sync with what the brand was best known for in the 1950s. 30|LUXEBOOK|JULY 2023 LUXURY WATCHES JULY 2023 |LUXEBOOK|31