JULY 2023 COVER STORY The fine art of Gary Mehigan MasterChef Australia judge on life beyond the show The persistent attraction of Oud Quiet luxury – beyond brand tags Why Rajasthan remains a pioneer in tourism
JULY 2023 THE GIST M asterChef Australia has been a huge TV moment in the lives of fellow Indians, those fond of cooking and otherwise. While judge Gary Mehigan has moved on from the reality show, he has been upto many exciting things, including delving into India’s diverse cuisine. We caught up with him to talk about food and diversity. Breguet’s Type XX launch, in the meanwhile, has been one of the most iconic reproductions of their cult chronograph from 70 years ago —we explore the new additions. We also delve into the world of Oud, an alluring scent that has captivated minds since the existence of perfume. Indian agarwood seems to be a crowd favourite! As the monsoons rave on, cosy up with our latest edition, we can tell you a thing or two about what’s been on our minds —quiet luxury for Payel Majumdar Upreti —Editor A feast of the senses S O C I A L M E D I A www.mediascope.co.in www.luxebook.in ADVERTISING SALES Mumbai (022 - 6846 8500) Regional Manager (West) — Katty Gia (+91 98705 32295) • Senior Manager — Lamont Dias (+91 91674 14988) Delhi (011 - 4562 5810) Sr. General Mgr. (North) — Asha Augustine (+91 98182 80431) Kerala (+91 94140 69321) — Sanjai Krishnan Manager Mktg. Services — Salim B • Client Servicing Manager — Reshma Malvankar Founders — Marzban Patel / Anita Patel • Director Publishing — Indu Joshi • Chief Marketing Officer — Apeksha Mehta Editor — Payel Majumdar Upreti • Writers — Arushi Sakhuja, Schenelle Dsouza, Jade Crasto Creative Director — Muhammad Jaan Faruqui This magazine is printed by and produced by Mediascope Representation (India) LLP. Opinions herein are the writers’ and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of Mediascope. Editorial enquiries concerning the reproduction of articles, advertising and circulation should be addressed to: LuxeBook, Mediascope Representation (India) LLP., 51, Doli Chamber, Arthur Bunder Road, Colaba, Mumbai 400005, India. Email: luxebook@mediascope.co.in. Material in this publication may not be reproduced, whether in part or in whole, without the consent of the publisher. 2|LUXEBOOK|JULY 2023 +91 91675 61434 WWW.PAYALSINGHAL.COM CS@PAYALSINGHAL.COM MUMBAI: GR.FLOOR, BHOGILAL HARGOVINDAS BLD, K. DUBASH MARG, KALA GHODA, FORT, MUMBAI 400 001; D7 TURNING POINT BLDG., JUNCTION OF 1ST RD & 16TH RD., KHAR W MUMBAI 400 052; SHOP NO.3, RAJ MAHAL BLDG., ALTAMOUNT RD., MUMBAI 400 026; DELHI: 40, 287288 DHAN MILLS COMPOUND, 100 FEET RD., CHHATARPUR, NEW DELHI 110 074 @PAYALSINGHAL @PAYALSINGHAL @PAYALSINGHALINC
JULY 2023 4|LUXEBOOK|JULY 2023 Cover Courtesy: Gary Mehigan MasterChef Australi 06 Trending 08 Rajasthan Tourism 20 Food Talk 30 Luxury Watches 26 Quiet Luxury 38 Beauty 14 Exploring Oud 32 Jewellery Forever CONTENTS
BY ARUSHI SAKHUJA Ritu Kumar Set of 3 – `1800 labelritukumar.com Luxury Car Accessories to add to your collection Luxury car owners know their car deserves the finest automotive products, be it an accessory or a spare part. These passionate car lovers with thick wallets love to accessorize their cars and give them a classy makeover with luxe add-ons (also with a whopping price tag!). While some of these accessories are designed to enhance visual appeal, some are designed to aid convenience and comfort. Here’s a look at some of the most outrageously priced flamboyant accessories you can pick from storeshelves for your four-wheeled beloved. 1. Mercedes Benz Crystal Pen Flaunt your love for cars on your office desk as you add this paper weight to your table. The decorative and functional paperweight in the Mercedes-Benz design idiom becomes the eye-catcher on any desk. 2. Bentley GT3-R Bronze Sculpture Looking for a masterpiece to enhance your home? Pick the Bentley GT3-R Bronze Sculpture which depicts the iconic Bentley GT3-R. The detailed sculpture makes a striking addition to any home. 3. 4K HD Touch Screen Make long car journeys more comfortable with a 4K smart tv screen in your car. Not only is it for videos, but the multiple outputs even lets you connect your laptop and phone to work on a bigger screen. The 10.6in Dual Headrest Video Players with WiFi, 4K HD Touch and more will make your journey far more comfortable. With the built-in speakers, you can use an FM transmitter to transmit to car speakers, you can also use BT headphones or wired headphones. 1 3 9 To amp up the fun, you can even add a flutter effect to these lights. The Starlight Headliner is a spellbinding Rolls-Royce Bespoke feature. Make every journey a magical experience with a stellar scene above you. 7. Bose seatcentric sound Live for a unique audio experience in your car with the Bose Seatcentric sound system for a personalized the experience. The comprehensive sound system is fitted on the headrest of the seat making each hearing experience a personal one. It is currently available for Porsche, Hyundai, Kia and Nissan. 8. Pagani Padded Jacket The new Pagani capsule collection from La Martina is inspired by the Huayra R supercar. This eye-catching neon padded jacket is made with goose down with front closure and laces and nylon effect lining. It has aihgh neck and hood closing on the front. The logo of the Pagani capsule is embroidered on the front together with La Martina one. Versatile and comfortable, it is ideal to wear with trousers or a denim collection. 9. McLaren PX8 Headphones Your favourite car brand now offers impeccable audio quality. THE Px8 McLaren Edition headphones fuse McLaren-inspired styling and high-performance wireless sound, an iconic collaboration between Bowers & Wilkins and McLaren Automotive. 4. Breitling Mulliner Tourbillon – Bentley Bentayga British Brand Bentley has unveiled the world’s most expensive car accessory: a built-in Breitling clock for the dashboard. At almost `1.2 cr — on top of the car’s price tag. This clock is a self-winding tourbillion and a true horology masterpiece. It comes with a casing made of white or yellow gold. The dial can be created in two versions — white or ebony black mother-of-pearl. Indices on this clock are made of diamonds, while the tourbillion has its own titanium cage. Bentley claims Breitling can only build four of these in-car clocks each year, and two are already sold. 5. Ferrari Sneakers Stand out from the crowd as you step into the striking Ferrari Men’s leather sneakers with multi-layer laminate-like finish. The bright red hue pays homage to the body of Ferraris and are inspired by their iconic paint. What’s more? The metal Prancing Horse has a ruthenium finish that has undergone a special anti-fingerprint treatment. 6. Rolls Royce Starlight You can install a special starry night sky within the interiors of your car to make it a tad luxe. Sith a child-like bubbly feeling, it promises to bring some twinkle to your eyes on a dark somber night. starlight’s tend to make us chuckle and feel joyful for some specific purpose. Starlights could be placed on the roof of the car so that when you look upwards, the roof of your car feels like you’re staring into the night sky. 6 7 4 2 5 8 6|LUXEBOOK|JULY 2023 TRENDING JULY 2023 |LUXEBOOK|7
BY PAYEL MAJUMDAR UPRETI The state, rich in history and culture, remains a pioneer in attracting tourists from across the world Rajasthan a thought leader in the tourism sector SPECIAL FEATURE Rajasthan has always been a top destination for tourism, thanks to its rich culture, history, and architecture. The state is a part of the ‘Golden Triangle Circuit’ and has captured everyone’s imagination with its food, culture, history, and the grand fairytale wedding destinations that it has become famous for. Only recently, Udaipur was voted in the second place in the ‘Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards’ 25 most favourite cities in the world’ by Travel + Leisure USA, a much-awaited popular choice award by its readers. According to official data, Rajasthan has witnessed a steady year-on-year growth in tourist footfall, wherein the first half of the current year, 36.48 million domestic tourists visited Rajasthan, 63% higher than the pre-pandemic period of the year 2019. In the first half of 2019, the state hosted 8.46 lakh foreign tourists as well. The state offers a range of tourism experiences, including iconic landmarks, heritage sites, special heritage villages or craft villages and experiential tourism. Rajasthan also caters to those seeking luxury and grandeur, with opulent palaces and heritage hotels that make it an ideal place for destination weddings and high-end tourism. Both domestic and international travellers find themselves captivated by Rajasthan’s vibrant culture, history, and festivities. The state attracts history and culture enthusiasts who are captivated by its magnificent forts, palaces and ancient temples, immersing themselves in Rajasthan’s rich heritage through heritage walks and cultural events. Architecture and art enthusiasts are drawn to the intricate carvings, frescoes and impressive craftsmanship displayed in the havelis, stepwells and Jain temples. Dr Rashmi Sharma, Director of Tourism Nature and wildlife lovers flock to Rajasthan’s diverse landscapes, from the Aravallis to the Thar Desert, and wildlife sanctuaries like Ranthambore and Sariska. Spiritual and pilgrim travellers find solace in sacred sites like Pushkar, Ajmer, and Nathdwara. It is the diversity and richness of experiences that makes Rajasthan a preferred choice for tourists of all demographics, ensuring that every visitor finds something that resonates with their interests and preferences. LuxeBook caught up with Dr Rashmi Sharma, Director of Tourism, to discuss the state’s potential for tourism, the recent recognition of the sector as an industry and the state government’s initiative to promote tourism and hospitality in Rajasthan. In what ways has the state been a thought leader in terms of promoting tourism? Rajasthan has established itself as a thought leader in promoting tourism through its innovative strategies, policies, and initiatives. We have been focusing aggressively on enhancing tourism infrastructure, investing in popular destinations like Jaipur, Udaipur and Jodhpur, and developing lesser-known locations such as Mount Abu, Ajmer-Pushkar, Sariska, and Ranthambore as weekend tourism destinations. This diversification of offerings has not only spread economic benefits but also positioned Rajasthan as a pioneer in tourism promotion. Rajasthan was the first state in the country to introduce a new Tourism Policy during the pandemic, aiming to make it the “Most Visible State” and achieve a prominent position among the top five states in terms of tourist arrivals. This forward-thinking approach has set Rajasthan apart as a leader in tourism promotion. Furthermore, granting ‘Industry Status’ to the tourism and hospitality sector showcases Rajasthan’s strong commitment to promote tourism and creating an environment that is conducive to the industry’s growth and development. By positioning cities like Jaipur, Udaipur and Jaisalmer as premier wedding destinations, Rajasthan has captured the imagination of the population with its opulence, traditional practices and romance. The certification of pre-1950 buildings as ‘Heritage Properties’ by the Department of Tourism preserves cultural heritage and promotes them as unique venues for royal weddings, film shoots, and luxurious accommodations for tourists. The state has introduced activities like boating, ATV rides, and mountaineering through public-private partnership initiatives, enhancing the overall travel experience. The state’s focus on sustainability and eco-tourism is evident through its eco-tourism policy, emphasizing conservation, communitybased tourism, and collaborations with UNESCO for cultural preservation. 8|LUXEBOOK|JULY 2023 JULY 2023 |LUXEBOOK|9
What circuits are being developed by the government currently? Rajasthan tourism has developed two more circuits for domestic and foreign travel.The first circuit has been developed keeping in mind religious tourism. This circuit has been named ‘Sarva Dharma Sambhava - Religious Pilgrimage Circuit’. Under this circuit, pilgrimage sites, dargahs, gurudwaras and Jain temples are being renovated and developed in different districts of the state. The ‘Sarva Dharma Sambhav’ circuit has been developed connecting the districts of Jaipur, Ajmer, Sikar, Chittorgarh, Sawai Madhapur, Karuli, Mount Abu, Bhilwara and Jhalawar. On the other hand, ‘Shekhawati Circuit’ has been developed connecting Sikar and Jhunjhunu districts, and under this havelis of these two districts are being renovated, preserved and promoted. Would you say that the state has a natural inclination and hence developed logistics for tourism? Rajasthan has demonstrated a natural inclination towards tourism and has made significant efforts to develop logistics and infrastructure to support the industry. The state’s cultural heritage, scenic landscapes and proactive tourism initiatives make it an attractive destination for tourists. Over the years, the government of Rajasthan has recognized the potential of tourism as a major economic driver and has taken several initiatives to develop and promote the tourism sector. The state has established a well-organized tourism infrastructure, including hotels, resorts, guesthouses, and tourist information centres, to cater to the needs of visitors. Rajasthan has also developed a robust transportation network to facilitate travel within the state. There are wellconnected roadways, railways, and airports that ensure easy accessibility to various tourist destinations. The state government has invested in improving the condition of roads, expanding airport facilities, and enhancing railway connectivity to attract more tourists. Additionally, Rajasthan has implemented policies and programs to preserve its cultural heritage. Historical monuments, such as forts, palaces, and havelis have been restored and maintained to provide tourists a glimpse into the rich history of the region. The state organizes cultural festivals, such as the ‘Pushkar Fair’ and ‘Jaipur Literature Festival’, which further enhances the tourism experience. Furthermore, Rajasthan Tourism actively promotes the state through marketing campaigns, participation in travel fairs, and collaborations with travel agencies. Tell us about the different attractions for luxury travellers and experiences in Rajasthan? One of the most luxurious travel experiences in Rajasthan is the ‘Palace on Wheels’ train, the only luxury train in India. Rajasthan is the land of Maharajas and so, there are so many points of attraction for luxury travellers to experience their lifestyle and cuisine. Rajasthan has a wide range of hotels with international facilities. How is the tourism department attracting new visitors? Rajasthan Tourism is now shifting its focus to showcase ‘Beyond the Obvious’ to its visitors. The department is putting its efforts to create a brand new image that aims to highlight lesser-known destinations and unique experiences. One of the main objectives of this rebranding exercise is to encourage tourists to stay longer and explore more of Rajasthan’s hidden gems. Adventure Tourism, wellness tourism, wildlife safaris, desert camping, hot air ballooning, ziplining activities are now an integral part of Rajasthan’s new brand image. Development and promotion of various tourism circuits, such as the desert circuit, wildlife circuit, spiritual circuit and tribal circuit is being done to showcase the state’s diverse attractions, including wildlife sanctuaries, tribal villages and religious sites. How has granting industry status for the tourism and hospitality industry by the Rajasthan Government helped the state? Realizing the immense potential of the tourism industry in the state, the state government has granted ‘Industry Status’ to the Tourism & Hospitality sector in the budget 2022-23. This has since extended many fiscal incentives for the sector including tax exemptions, subsidies and financial assistance, which can lead to a reduction of up to 30% in electricity bills. Additionally, the urban development tax on industrial rates has been reduced, with a reduction of up to 80% in charges. The state government has also introduced various policies to provide ‘Ease of Doing Business’ in Rajasthan and also to boost investment opportunities in the state. Rajasthan Tourism Policy 2020, Rajasthan Film Tourism Promotion Policy 2022, Rajasthan Industrial Development Policy 2019, RIPS 2019, Guest House Scheme 2021, Rajasthan Eco Tourism Policy 2021 are all policies intended to make Rajasthan the most Investment friendly state by simplifying regulations, offering tax incentives, and streamlining the licensing process for tourism-related businesses. What are the reasons for the best international and Indian hotel chains preferring Rajasthan as their destination to enter the Indian market? Rajasthan has been the first state in India to give full industry status to the tourism and hospitality sector. Now, all work is being done under one roof through the single window system. All the necessary elements for tourism are present in Rajasthan, so international hotel chains want to register their presence in Rajasthan. Small towns are also making a distinct identity in the destination wedding sector. Lots of efforts to establish collaborations with UNWTO, WTTC, PATA and other important international bodies have been made.The State government collaborated with the Ministry of Tourism, Government of India to leverage multilateral tourism forums functioning under SAARC, ASEAN, IBSA, BRICS and others to promote tourism. What are the challenges faced by the government when it comes to tourism in the State? As the tourism industry in the state continues to grow, new challenges inevitably emerge. These challenges include the presence of unauthorized guides and touts who are neither accredited or trained by the Department. They cause distress and unease to tourists sometimes. Similarly, unscrupulous travel agencies, mostly mushrooming online in peak tourist season offering substandard or unauthenticated products or services or engaging in fraudulent activities also pose another challenge. To address this issue, Department has strengthened regulations and licensing requirements for travel agents and guides while monitoring on ground activities regularly in order to check these elements. So far, we have been able to deal with these problems very effectively. Not a single case of such malpractice which comes to our notice goes unattended, mostly to the satisfaction of the tourists. Ensuring safe and secure environment to the tourists is a high priority for the Department for which the department has adopted multi-pronged approach. These include setting up Tourism Police Stations in key cities, Jaipur, Udaipur and Jodhpur and deployment of Tourist Assistance Force (TAF) at popular tourist spots, installing CCTV cameras in key areas, and creating awareness through social media on safe travel practices. Malpractices and misconduct to the tourists has been made a cognizable offence through amendment in law. Through these regulatory measures, awareness campaigns, and enhanced security measures, Rajasthan Tourism strives to create a positive image and memorable trip for tourists visiting the state. The objective of the department is to establish Rajasthan as not only the most favoured destination but also the safest and most enjoyable destination in India. 10|LUXEBOOK|JULY 2023 JULY 2023 |LUXEBOOK|11
Diving into the world of oud BY JADE CRASTO One of the costliest raw scent components in the world is oud, also known as oudh. A kilogramme of oud can cost as much as a kilogram of gold if not more. The fragrance component, which is unique to South-East Asia, comes from the bark of trees and has an instantly recognizable woody aroma.Agarwood and its derivatives have been traded since the dawn of time, and some writings even claim that traders transported agarwood from China to the Middle East via India using the renowned Silk Route. Historically, markets in Japan and the Middle East, including Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and the United Arab Emirates were the main consumers of oud, which was originally produced in South and Southeast Asian countries including India, Bangladesh, China, Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia and Vietnam. However, there seems to have been a recent increase in demand, mostly in Western Europe, as well as supply centres, such as Australia and Sri Lanka. The historical origins of oud, which goes back to 1400 B.C.E., are rooted in tradition and culture. In addition to being burned as incense to greet guests at home, it is also blended into oils or fragrances. Today, commercial fragrances may be found all over the world with notes of oud. To know more about this beautiful and aromatic fragrance, LuxeBook spoke to Mustafa Firoz, Managing Director, My Perfumes Group & Founder; My Perfumes Select. My Perfumes Select is a luxurious fragrance brand based in the United Arab Emirates (UAE). With a passion for the art of perfumery, the brand offers a range of perfumes crafted from Extrait de Parfum or perfume absolutes from the most exquisite perfume ingredients in the world. What is Oud (Oudh)? “Oud or agarwood, verily referred to as ‘Wood of Gods’, ‘Scent of Heaven’, ‘King of Scents’ & ‘Black Gold’ continues to remain the highlight of oriental alchemy”, says Firoz. Agarwood which is resin-infused fragrant wood, is derived from tropical trees whereby the trunk and branches start producing a fragrant resin that the world has come to love and value, all in response to a yeast infection. It can take anywhere between several years to decades for the resin to fully form and mature, making it the most coveted, most expensive and splendidly opulent ingredient in the world of natural perfumery. The Indian agarwood and its pure extract are considered to be the most coveted of agarwood fragrances. Firoz says, My Perfumes Select curates the finest and rarest agarwood and dhanal-oud, from the most famous centres of the world. The perfume sprays are created from the top-quality oud absolutes with the highest concentration of extrait de perfume, making each fragrance an olfactory experience of indulgence and luxury. Each piece of wood is handpicked by artisans to ensure exceptional quality and authenticity for the connoisseurs of agarwood and oud fragrances. The complexity of Oud Sinceitisaresinouswood,oudundergoesatransformative process over time, developing a distinct fragrance that varies in intensity and character depending on the tress’ age, the region it grows in and the specific conditions under which the coveted resin is formed. The complex scent is an ode to nature with different elements lending their notes to create a precious olfactory experience.The notes of different natural elements are woven together in perfect harmony, crafting an aromatic symphony that is opulent, captivating and indulgent beyond measure. The core scent of oud is often described as warm, sensuous, and deeply resinous. It has a remarkable complexity, with layers of balsamic, leathery, and slightly animalistic undertones. Oud or agarwood in all its product forms has been used and is the highlight ingredient in the world’s most exclusive and niche perfumes. It symbolizes the utmost 14|LUXEBOOK|JULY 2023 AROMATIC RESIN JULY 2023 |LUXEBOOK|15
manifestation of luxury and indulgence, and the quality of the aroma can be viewed as an indication of status, prestige and legacy. Among all the natural varieties, Indian agarwood and its pure extract is considered to be the best in fragrance. It is rich, pure and pristine oud that is tantalising, alluring and intoxicating- so diverse and complex that words fail to capture the magical bloom of its aroma. Cambodian agarwood is sweet and fruity – with facets of plums, figs, and peaches and nuances of spices and tobacco, while Indonesian agarwood has a spicy and woody scent, and Malaysian oud is very woody with a rich aroma. The fragrance of oud can be further enhanced by the presence of other natural ingredients used in perfumery, such as spices, floral notes, or precious woods, which can complement and highlight different aspects of the oud scent. My Perfumes Select curates the finest and a highly nuanced selection of Oud sprays customized to the varied tastes of oud connoisseurs What makes it significant The incense and perfumes that are produced from oud have been valued for centuries and used by many cultures for spiritual or meditative, medicinal, grooming and aphrodisiac purposes. It is highly revered in the seminal texts of Hinduism, Christianity, Buddhism, and Islam. Apart from its historic significance, oud has, today, become one of the most sought-after perfumery ingredients in the world. While the best oud has traditionally come from Assam, India, it is the Arabs who passionately fell in love with oud and honed the craft of oud for centuries, elevating the ritual of oud to an art form to an extent that the modern-day western perfumery was forced to acknowledge the magical aromatic qualities of oud. Oud is not an easy note to manifest or manipulate as it meanders through deluges before finally settling down. It is a complex molecule and requires the precision of a scientist and the sensitivity of an artist to balance it, either as a highlight note or as a subtle part of a bouquet of notes. It is an art that has been honed by My Perfumes Select through years of experience and realised by some of the best artisans of the oud craft. My Perfumes Select oud rituals manifest the oud note as one of the most luxurious and opulent perfume experiences and reimagine it in an enchanting opus with the most precious notes that have captured imagination and senses. From the sweet embrace of Vanilla and the warm allure of Amber to the mysterious, Mustafa Firoz, Managing Director, My Perfumes Group earthy nuance of Patchouli, each fragrance presents an olfactory journey like no other. Distinguishing oud from perfume Pure oud oil or dhanal oud, as it is called, is a concentrated fragrance. It is worn neat usually on areas where the temperature of the body is slightly higher- like the pulse points on the wrists, behind ears, neck and ankles. For centuries, dhanal oud was the most coveted of fragrances and symbolised social and financial stature and distinction in the society. It is considered the perfume of royalty. The beauty of dhanal oud lies in its versatility to lead as perfume when worn neat or to lend itself to an olfactory ecosystem. Dhanal oud serves as an important perfume ingredient, particularly in oriental alchemy. Oud has a deep, woody scent that is often described as being earthy, warm, and animalistic. A spray or perfume in common parlance, on the other hand, is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents that are used to create a single pleasant scent. My Perfumes Select, curates an exclusive collection of dhanal oud oils, each representing a very distinct fragrant nuance and epoch yet as a collection, weaving a story of exclusivity and prestige. The My Perfumes Select palette of oud sprays capture the oud note in all its glory and has wowed perfume lovers across the globe. Synthetic oud The synthetic note of agarwood is a great addition to perfumery, but it cannot replace the splendorous, rich, and opulent fragrance of natural oud,which takes years to form and mature. An oud is not good enough if it doesn’t leave a unique, lingering trail. Natural oud can be used in all its variations- as incense, perfume and perfume ingredient. Nothing compares to the richness, opulence and magical mystique of oud, as pure oil, incense and in sprays. It symbolizes the utmost manifestation of luxury and indulgence. From times immemorial, the quality of oud aroma has been associated with status, prestige, and legacy. Difference between synthetic and natural oud When it comes to composition and fragrance, there is no comparison, the natural fragrance of oud is complex and meanders through various deluges to finally settle into a magical bloom. The mystique of the famous Arabian 16|LUXEBOOK|JULY 2023 JULY 2023 |LUXEBOOK|17
perfume trail is intrinsically associated with natural oud. Oud has been coveted since ancient times and is the perfume of royalty. The synthetic oud is unable to replicate the aura imparted by the natural resin. Benefits to using oud oil Oud oil has a significant cultural and spiritual significance in various traditions, particularly in the Middle East and Southeast Asia. Incenses and perfumes that are produced from agarwood have been valued for centuries and used by many cultures for spiritual, medicinal, beauty and aphrodisiac purposes. It is known to induce a sense of calm and peace. The pure oil of oud is used as a scent, neat on the skin, either independently or in conjugation with different fragrance oils as attar. Oud oil possesses the amazing quality of sealing in moisture, so as to intensely hydrate the skin. Also, dhanal oud is highly coveted for its sillage. My Perfume Selects Oud moattars and bukhoors - a luxurious collection of home incense is made from high concentration of pure oud oil and help create a beautifully scented, relaxed atmosphere and a peaceful ambiance for your home. The collection includes options like Vanilla Addiction, Patchouli Rogue, Precious Rose, Saffron Deluxe and Terre De Santal- spectacular incenses enriched with various natural ingredients including aromatic woods, exotic flowers, natural barks, and tree extracts, resins, leaves & flowers. At My Perfumes Select, they proud to have created the very first EDP collection with 0% alcohol that works with all skin types. This collection has been very well received globally, Rustic Oud being one of the highlight fragrances in the series. This sets them apart from other brands and helps enhance the appeal of their collection among connoisseurs across the world! 18|LUXEBOOK|JULY 2023 JULY 2023 |LUXEBOOK|19
When people hear the name, Gary Mehigan, they almost always think of the popular cooking show, MasterChef Australia. And while MasterChef did help promote his charming persona, Gary Mehigan is so much more than that. Post his exit from MasterChef Australia, Chef Gary has spent his time travelling – exploring new cuisines and ingredients, and of course new destinations. But if there’s one place Gary Mehigan loves more than any other holiday destination, it is India! Did you know Chef Gary has been to India almost fourteen times? That’s right, the Australian chef loves India and Indian cuisine, so much so that he makes it a point to visit India at least once a year; for both leisure and exciting food collaborations. During the Covid lockdown, the internet saw a host of passionate home bakers, cooks and chefs share their love for food on social media, while providing the world with some delicious, easy home-cooked meals. This encouraged Gary to conduct online masterclasses to share his knowledge of cooking with aspiring chefs, home chefs and anyone with a passion for food. Soon this led to creative collaboration with Conosh, a common platform that allows home chefs to showcase their food, and partake in exciting masterclass sessions, many of which have been conducted by Chef Gary Mehigan himself. In June this year, Chef Gary visited India once again for a masterclass in collaboration with Conosh, where participants got a chance to learn and prepare three of his popular desserts. During his visit, LuxeBook caught a few minutes with Chef Gary, where he spilled the beans on his journey post MasterChef, his love for Indian street food, his opinions on cooking shows and more. What was the reason behind parting ways with MasterChef? I think I was getting old. Negotiations break down principally over the time we were required to spend on MasterChef, which is 7 months in a year. I wanted to do something else. We stood on the hallowed boards at the front of the studio for eleven years. We did sixteen seasons including Junior and All Stars. I remember asking the head of Channel 10, “How long do you think the show’s going to go on for?” And he said, “I reckon another ten years,” and I looked him in the eye and said, “But surely not with us!” I think he was quite shocked to find that (I think) all of us had an end time, a stagnation point. And honestly, I promised my family I would only do it if I loved it. And my wife said to me, “Don’t do it because you think that we want you to do it. It’s you. So don’t come home complaining that it’s boring.” So, I promised myself very early on, that once I felt that it wasn’t my thing, I would move on. What is the difference between home chefs and professional chefs? (Laughs) I’m just going to upset a huge amount of people, aren’t I? I think, for me, when I started MasterChef, George (Calombaris) and I were very critical of what BY SCHENELLE DSOUZA UP CLOSE WITH Chef Gary Mehigan The MasterChef Australia judge talks about his love for India, Indian food, and his journey post the show 20|LUXEBOOK|JULY 2023 FOOD TALK JULY 2023 |LUXEBOOK|21
was put in front of us. We were like, they’re home cooks; they’ll try but won’t do well. And what we learnt very quickly was that if you’re passionate about something, if you’re driven about something, then of course you’re going to become very good. So, in many cases, unlike many professionals, the drive of a passionate home cook leads to much better fruit. And we saw that through the pandemic, people became obsessed with things like sourdough or banana bread. And it’ll be better than any banana bread from any café on the planet. So, it really does make a difference. A chef is under a separate set of rules: performance, accountability, responsibility. You get a hundred customers within two hours. And you must rely on speed, efficiency, and delivery. Whereas when you cook at home with a glass of wine, it’s a whole separate set of rules. And I like the fact that amateurs deep dive into something and often end up better than a professional. Did you watch yourself on MasterChef Australia? I never watched MasterChef Australia; I’m not going to watch MasterChef India (laughs). Because number one, I can’t watch myself on television, it’s very awkward. You know when you’ve been filming for twelve hours, and then you go home and hear yourself on television, it’s an awful thing! My father was a teacher, and he used to say, “I get sick of my own voice.” So, I never really watch it. The only time I watched it (MasterChef Australia) is if I was interested in how the story that developed in studio or out of studio — the integrity of that was kept through the edit process. But MasterChef was so well made that we were always thrilled. If I ever caught a glimpse of it, I was thrilled. And we always looked up the contestants and were thrilled they had a positive experience. And that is why we have stayed in touch. If you look at my phone, there are 50 contestants in there. Do you think MasterChef Australia had an impact on cooking shows or helped kickstart the trend of cooking shows? The kind of food shows I like are pure food shows, the ones that take you on a journey. I like in-depth content – food driven shows that might appeal to a small audience. MasterChef was, once upon a time in the UK, much like that.An Australian production company took it and turned it into the show we know today. And I’ve never been a fan of loud shows, like Hell’s Kitchen for example. He did a show where he goes into a restaurant and fixes it – Kitchen Nightmares. So, the original series was brilliant. Then it went to America and became sensationalized, and all done for effect. And I really didn’t like it. Most of the prime-time cooking shows, I as a chef, like the idea of people who love food. But they become more of a sporting event for entertainment than they are about food. That’s not my thing. Most of the content that comes out, like for example, Pastry Masters in Australia, I won’t watch it. I know all the people professionally, associates and friends that are on the show. One of them asked me if I think they should do it, and I said “Of course you should do it. Will I watch it? Probably no!” I’d rather go to their restaurant and eat their dessert. I think it’s my age. As I get older, I certainly prefer things that take a deeper dive, a quieter approach, something more meaningful. 22|LUXEBOOK|JULY 2023 JULY 2023 |LUXEBOOK|23
What is the weirdest dish you’ve tried? My recent trip to Nagaland involved a lot of insects, which is shocking for most people. But it’s future food. I ate silkworm, red carpenter worm and crisp deep-fried Hornby. And I know when I post it, people are quick to comment because they do not like it – not trolls, but people who are just quick to comment, and I just get rid of them, or I respond if I think they are listening. But I post it and put it into the context of Naga life and Naga history. And then people are a little more reluctant to go, “Oh you shouldn’t eat that!” You’ve shared your love for Indian street food many times. What do you think about the difference between the food cooked in fine dining restaurants versus street side stalls? The best thing about street food is what we all know, repetition is perfection. And so, street sellers could be multi-generational – making one thing for their whole life and passing it down generations. Imagine just being there and watching these guys banging out kachoris, for example, and they’re not even looking at it. I was in Tamil Nadu watching a man throwing a paratha in the air, smiling as I film him. And I am thinking, I can do that, ‘cause I know how to make a roti or a lachcha paratha. And I go home, and my family is like what are we having for dinner, and I say we’re making paratha. And I am clumsily throwing a piece of raggedy dough, like it is so much easier when he did it. So, there’s a beauty and respect in the simplicity of the food you see in the street. Like watching a lady stretch seviyan by hand and marvelling at it and thinking it looks easy, but when you have a go and realize it’s going to take you a long time to learn how to do that. Have you ever tried making Indian food for your family? If I make something Indian, they’re either going to love me or hate me for it. Or like the recipe, they want to tell me that I’ve done it wrong. I’ve made medu vada and it took me about five different recipes from close chef friends to get it right. Kachori is similar. I’ll do a bit of a deep dive, I’ll make it. And if I make it once, I’ll make it again. Vaibhav Bahl (CONOSH co-founder) brought me a wet grinder from India, and it weighs about 20kg. And I haven’t plugged it in yet. I want to use it to make dosa. I love dosa and I make it in a blender, but I don’t think it’s quite right. So, things I would love to eat I’ll reproduce. When I was in Mathura, I had idiappam; it’s rice based, and it goes through a press, and it’s done so quickly. And when it’s done there’s coconut milk, jaggery and toasted coconut. And I’m the guy on the street just looking like, “Oh my God this is delicious!” What’s the difference between Indian and Australian cuisine? The love of texture! The love for temperature – cold and hot. You think about pani puri, golgappa or raj kachori. You take a hot kachori, smash it and cover it in dahi, you put pomegranate seeds, tamarind chutney and you’ve got a riot of flavour. Australians love that. We love crispy, crunch, and gooey. We talk about molecular gastronomy and for me, Raj Kachori is a kind of molecular gastronomy. It’s a beautiful construction of a slightly fatty pastry that is deep-fried and then we put a marvellous preparation of bacterial soup, which is what yogurt is. It’s incredible! What do you think about the patriarchy that exists in the cooking industry? My mum is a very plain cook, but my grandad, her father, was a chef. And he was the one who inspired me to become a chef. My grandad, when he looked after my sister and I, he would spoil us rotten, And I remember he cooked a cabbage dish. And it was delicious – my What do you think about the culture of food influencers, and the new trend of clicking food pictures for Instagram? When it started to happen, restaurants got really upset about it. There was a ban on photography initially, but in the end, people just accepted it, thinking, – You know what, if I’m looking to go to a restaurant, what is the first thing to do? I don’t know about you, but I’m going to check out their Instagram, check out what food they’re serving and decide that it looks good, and I want to go there. I just think it’s an incredible medium. I don’t take a lot of food pictures, but I would still much rather look at food pictures than a menu. I don’t take the pictures myself, but I do post them. What is your comfort food? Depends on the season. Right now, it’s winter in Australia, so Ramen, Vietnamese Pho. My coriander and mint chicken is one of my family’s favourite dishes. But it changes with the weather. sister and I ate it all up. And he told my mum that the kids love cabbage. But when my mum cooked it, it was the most disgusting thing I’d ever had. As I got older, I realized mum only boiled it, but my grandad would add a little bit of garlic, a little bit of butter – a French style, a little bit of bacon, hit it with some sherry vinegar and it was delicious. So, I asked my mum, “Why are you such a plain cook?” And she told me that when she grew up in the 50s and 60s, grandad was always at work. And her mother was from the North of England and her cooking was even more plain. So, it is a generational thing. But it has changed; in Australia it has completely changed. Boys are, of course, a little bit embarrassed. When I was a young chef in college, all my friends were becoming architects and lawyers, builders, very manly things. Suddenly, I realized that cooking wasn’t a particularly manly thing to do, which was ridiculous. And thank goodness! If you ask a man in Australia today if he thinks cooking is not a very manly thing to do, they will look at you like you’re a being from another planet. 24|LUXEBOOK|JULY 2023 JULY 2023 |LUXEBOOK|25
While trends are primarily how the retail industry operates, off late there have been movements that attempt to turn the tide. One of the biggest trends to catch on, ironically, is quiet luxury, or luxury goods that redeem themselves purely on the basis of quality, and not any labels. What is it? Also referred to as ‘stealth wealth’, quiet luxury to put it in simple terms, is a luxury that hides itself. Unlike other brands who boast their logos all over their products, quiet luxury keeps it minimal and sophisticated. A tendency towards classic, high-quality items that demand some level of insider knowledge to appreciate is known as quiet luxury. Anyone can see a piece covered in logos from a major luxury brand and understand what it costs and how much money it is worth, but quiet luxury, which is distinguished by its lack of overt branding, places value in the materials, craftsmanship, and design, all of which require training to appreciate. Taking a moment to step away from the commotion and hype of the present fashion scene is necessary for quiet luxury. Instead, choose items based on their construction or how they feel against your skin. The philosophy behind quiet luxury is to look away from giant marketing campaigns and to place focus on the true value of the product. By perhaps understanding how the cashmere in a sweater is spun, will leave you with a deeper understanding of what makes the clothes you wear unique. BY JADE CRASTO How logo free brands are taking over the market How did it come to be? A number of general socioeconomic status behaviours that encouraged its development in recent months are likely responsible for the quick ascent of quiet luxury. One such tendency is the constant preoccupation with shows of fortune on social media. Unquestionably, the emergence of social media over the past ten years has increased the focus on individuality and, especially, on self-image. The near-universal trend among influencers and digital artists to create posts in which they seemed indisputably charming, successful, and, above all, wealthy was spawned by this increase in the significance of one’s public-facing online identity. This urge to appear wealthy gave rise to the hotly contested fashion trend known as logo-mania. The term logo-mania describes the fashion fad of covering every square inch of an outfit with a brand’s logo, distinguishing symbol, or name. Eventually, the promotion of logo-mania by different internet celebrities had a domino effect and spread among the general public only by posting on their personal accounts. If you logged onto Instagram, you would see hundreds of people splashed in Gucci or Louis Vuitton. However, when these overt shows of wealth spread across society, they started to lose their appeal. Simply said, the proliferation of these logo-adorned items robbed them away from their authentic significance as visible signs of monetary success. As a result, the influencer community was compelled to mimic the style of an even more elite social class, giving rise to the old money aesthetic. The 26|LUXEBOOK|JULY 2023 JULY 2023 |LUXEBOOK|27 QUIET LUXURY
popularity of trademarks on social media has increasingly decreased over the past several months as online celebrities have tried to present their wealth in a way that is comparable to that of the wealthiest and most affluent in the globe. They have gradually started to change the way they dress, choosing pieces that are modest in terms of colour and shape and sourcing them from companies whose main distinguishing characteristics are workmanship and timelessness rather than from an overrated luxury brand. Sustainability in Quiet Luxury Fast-fashion brands replicate popular outfits from recent fashion shows or social media posts easily, in big quantities, and at a low price. It is no doubt that the fashion industry burns a lot of resources, and with the recent emergence of new fast-fashion companies, this wastefulness has only increased. The fashion industry emits more carbon than international flights and maritime shipping combined. As consumers worldwide buy more clothes, the demand for quality clothes and new styles is increasing day by day. Fashion production makes up to 10% of humanity’s carbon emissions which dries up water sources and pollutes river and streams. The mass production of clothes has resulted in harming the environment. This is when sustainable fashion enters the picture. Since consumers have grown more aware of these realities over the past several years, they have started to avoid fast fashion in favour of shopping with a sustainable mind. As a result, more people are choosing to buy items that are not only made in a way that is kinder to the environment but also strong and timeless. Quiet luxury, or maybe even the quiet luxury style, is a perfect fit for people wishing to purchase in accordance with these more environmentally friendly principles. It has been the most blatant response to fashion’s present push for sustainability as a trend that focuses mostly on supporting classic designs and high-quality workmanship. Although the trend does not explicitly link to or support sustainability, perhaps the quiet luxury themes, such as simplicity, high-quality construction, less is more, and lifetime wearability, can draw attention away from massmade quick fashion and indirectly help to lessen environmental impact, foster greater social responsibility, and aid in climate change mitigation. Can India do ‘Quiet Luxury’? India’s history demonstrates that the country has a lengthy past of prosperity. The most gorgeous textiles have been fashioned here, and some of the best diamonds have been dug from our earth. Expensive spices are also produced here. Cartier was made famous by Indian world in exquisite sarees, and quiet luxury fashion quickly became the talk of the town. In urban India a few decades later, Sonia Gandhi, Simi Garewal, and the majority of the female population have advanced in this order. The emphasis is different on the subcontinent because for us, quiet luxury is defined by the beauty of the fabrics which can range from thick silks hand-woven in vivid hues to pure muslin and the intricateness of their weaves. We follow the idea of not having the label splashed all over but we don’t follow the idea of having that minimalist look. So, to summarise it, India can do quiet luxury with a little noise. rajahs like Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala and Maharaja Digvijay Singh of Nawanagar who ordered extravagant pieces encrusted with enormous diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and pearls. Luxury was created in India even before iconic worldwide companies like Cartier and Louis Vuitton were established, and for Indians, luxury still implies customization, personalization, and meticulous workmanship. To this day, luxury in India means having bespoke patola and paithani sarees weaved and ornamented, having the best-embroidered muslin handkerchiefs, and supervising the fabrication of customized temple jewels or polki jewelry. Since India’s pre-colonial history of genuine wealth and richness, which was strongly connected with the homeland, has existed, people have engaged in this luxurious practice. Even in 2023, individuals would continue to aspire to own textiles and handicrafts from India as symbols of prosperity. These textile wonders are manufactured to order and slow fashion because to the arduous labour that goes into their creation. Quiet luxury is nothing new or particularly trendy in India. In India, Indira Gandhi and Maharani Gayatri Devi travelled the nation and the 28|LUXEBOOK|JULY 2023 JULY 2023 |LUXEBOOK|29
Navigator of choice The timeless appeal of the Breguet Type XX The Breguet Type XX makes a comeback in 2023 with new momentum, a new generation and an all-new calibre BY ARUSHI SAKHUJA With a legacy of nearly 70 years, the Breguet Type XX has accompanied the history of aviation – whether on pilots’ wrists as a precision instrument or on those of ordinary amateur enthusiasts. Keeping this in mind, Breguet unveiled a redesigned line that is innovative, highly contemporary and brimming with history. The unique Breguet Type XX There are a lot of pilot chronographs in the market today, but the Breguet Type XX is one of the most iconic chronographs of them all. Enjoying a cult status for nearly 70 years, the Type XX has accompanied the history of aviation — whether on pilots’ wrists as a precision instrument or on those of ordinary amateur enthusiasts fascinated by its legendary qualities. In the early 1950s, Breguet was able to meet the requirements of air forces wishing to equip themselves with a robust wrist chronograph featuring certain distinctive characteristics. With orders from the French Air Force, followed by the Centre d’Essais en Vol, the Aéronautique Navale and numerous civilian pilots, the entire aviation elite took to the skies with the famous Type XX. The Type XX’s success in the 1950s made the brand draw upon its history while creating the new Type XX in two versions. Four years of preparation preceded the unveiling of the latest generation of iconic Type XX watches. The watch is now available in two styles: Type 20 Chronographe 2057 inspired by military designs and Type XX Chronographe 2067 reflecting the finest civilian models. Type 20 Chronographe 2057: The Military Heritage The Type 20 Chronographe 2057 timepiece is inspired by 1100 iconic timepieces delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959, whose name appeared as Type 20 in Arabic numerals — Type XX. The watch features a modernized black dial while carrying ahead its design ethos of the old Type 20 identity. The 42 mm steel case is fitted with a non-engraved fluted bidirectional bezel and the crown reflecting the original pear shape is adjustable in three positions: neutral, date correction, and time setting. The 30-minute totalizer located at 3 o’clock is now larger than the 60-second totalizer displayed at 9 o’clock. The 2 o’clock pusher serves to activate the chronograph, and the one at 4 o’clock for the flyback function. The former is used to start and stop the watch, while the latter serves to reset the chronograph and the minute totalizer. Breguet Type 20 Chronographe 2067: The line of civilian versions The second timepiece has an adventurous and slick look, is a direct descendant of the finest civilian Type XX from the 1950s and 1960s, notably a model made in 1957 and bearing the individual number 2988. While its dial is black as the 2057, it differs in several respects. The key difference lies in its display: the 15-minute totalizer is located at 3 o’clock, the 12-hour totalizer at 6 o’clock and running seconds at 9 o’clock. The 2 o’clock pusher starts and stops the chronograph functions, while the one at 4 o’clock resets and restarts the chronograph immediately, based on the famous “flyback” principle. Encased in a 42 mm steel case, the totalizer has a different size to make the dial both more dynamic and more legible. The Arabic numerals, the hands and the triangle on the bezel are in an ivory-coloured luminescent hue. Like the military version, the date window appears between 4 and 5 o’clock. Adding to the list of details is the fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight crown enables setting in three positions that are the same as the military version. Both models are equipped with the Flyback function, which allows the chronograph to be reset to zero and a new count to be started instantly. With a sleek and contemporary design, the timepieces are a luxe addition to your daily look. Wear it to the board room or for a casual evening and leave onlookers mesmerized. It truly is a sophisticated statement handcrafted with precision. Although the newer models have a more contemporary look, the design ethos is in sync with what the brand was best known for in the 1950s. 30|LUXEBOOK|JULY 2023 LUXURY WATCHES JULY 2023 |LUXEBOOK|31
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